Observing protocol in Thailand

Attending a funeral is always a sombre occasion - but it is particularly poignant when the nation is mourning the passing of a beloved figure.
When the king of Thailand's sister, Princess Galyanishe, succumbed to cancer in January the kingdom was almost entirely dressed in black for 15 days. And as her six-day funeral began on Friday, we are again walking monochrome streets.
Thailand's monarchy is worshipped in semi-religious fashion throughout the kingdom and the official cremation on Saturday, which allows the princess to take her place among the gods, is the first full royal funeral here in 12 years. So perhaps it is unsurprising to note that media coverage of the event comes with a 127-page booklet on protocol.
It starts with the wardrobe. It is all black, besides the mens' shirts, even black armbands. And for a scruffy bunch of media types this has involved weeks of preparation. Suits have been hired by all, second-hand shoes bought and debates had about whether the newer-style black "Crocs" adhere to the rule for formal attire (they pass, but are a little tricky to wear with the stipulated black stockings). One of our photographers admits he has left the knot in his new black tie because he can't remember how to retie it.
Registering our intern reporter for the event has provided another elaborate hoop to jump through. Without a government press card he was not allowed to attend the ceremony. And obtaining a temporary one that would not expire before the day required him to fly to Cambodia for the weekend on a premature visa run.
The day itself will begin at 5 a.m. when our five accredited journalists head to Sanam Luang for the procession of the royal urn to the crematorium. The photographers must find a spot in one of 11 stands, each with about 20 snappers - that's roughly 220 photographers, cameras and tripods jostling for position along the procession route.
No sunglasses, hats or umbrellas are allowed and suit jackets must not be taken off whatever the weather, as one of our photographers quickly learnt when he was barked at by an officer at the morning-long dress rehearsal of the event and ordered to put his back on.
Leaving for a toilet trip is not allowed without permission, and not at all while the procession goes along.
For the picture guys, these ceremonial requirements end at 11 a.m. But for our intern reporter Paul, his 19-hour day ends around midnight - after the afternoon's symbolic royal cremation and the actual cremation at 10 p.m. Paul's only chance of repose will be found at a hostel on the infamous traveller-friendly Khao San road nearby. But he is keen to get the full picture to report back. It's not every day you get to cover a royal funeral.
Our video reporter found herself in the biggest pickle of all - discovering with a visit to the media centre this week that her equipment is not compatible with the pool feed being provided by the official royal bureau. She has quickly hired the requisite decks and cables to transform her one-woman operation. But with the funeral site declared a car-free zone it will be a rather harried looking Jackie lugging all this stuff along the road at 5 a.m. tomorrow (Saturday).